The system, basically identical to the one fitted to the 2011 KX450F, automatically adjusts to suit track and climate conditions, and offers consistent fuel metering and response even when the going gets rough, such as when landing off jumps or slamming through the whoops. The big news is the addition of Digital Fuel Injection (DFI) that not only helps produce stunning ? and more useable ? power, but also makes tuning a much easier proposition. On the more powerful side of the equation are loads of engine modifications, all of which have made the latest KX an absolute corner-to-corner screamer. Or read the long list of enthusiast magazine shootouts that picked the 2010 KX250F as the best motocrosser in its class.įor 2011, the goal was an even faster and more ridable KX250F. Just ask Christophe Pourcel and Jake Weimer, who won the 2010 AMA 250 East and West titles, respectively, on their Monster Energy/ Pro Circuit / Kawasaki-backed KXs. When reworking the new KX250F, engineers started with what’s arguably already the gold standard in 250-class racing ? the 2010 KX250F. And Kawasaki does this for one reason: To put you on the fiercest, most capable motocrosser in the industry. ![]() And with the introduction of Kawasaki’s massively reworked 2011 KX250F, that gap just shrank a little more.Īll told, there are nearly 30 upgrades to the new KX250F, all of which reflect the stunning level of testing and development happening behind the scenes at Kawasaki’s R&D and race teams. The gap between production and factory-prepped motocrossers has never been narrower. Their bikes are faster, lighter and just plain tricker than the motocrossers you can buy off the showroom floor. It’s an old refrain: The factory guys get all the good stuff. Have any comments or questions? Did the video help you out? Feel free to comment below.More AMA 250 Championships than any Motorcycle in History! If you have a bog when when whack the throttle hard, I would recommend that you check out my 4 stroke carb clean video first, then watch the 4 stroke jetting video to get rid of that bog and get that front wheel off the ground! Also, no play will be present in the rod and it will actually preload the rod, taking away usable pump shot volume. If it is too far advanced, the squirt will usually hit the back of the slide, which is not desirable. If you back the screw out, you will advance or make the squirt come in earlier. You are basically adding more slack/play into the rod and it takes a good amount of throttle to take this play out and start the squirt. ![]() If you turn the screw in, it will delay or retard the squirt, which is not good and it will most likely create a bog. Super useful when bench testing carburetors. Here is a link to the auxiliary fuel tank I used in this video. You will want to double check the squirt either on your workbench or while it is installed on the bike (subframe/airbox removed). This setting does 2 things: it allows the diaphragm to fully fill with fuel and allows the squirt to start as early as possible. I have found that if you adjust the timing screw until there is very little little play in the rod, then that is the perfect setting. I explain an easier way in the video above. ![]() Most service manuals and even aftermarket companies have really complicated procedures for setting up the pump shot timing. ![]() If you own a modern 4 stroke dirt bike, then it is equipped with a Keihin FCR carburetor.
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